Patan

The historic city of Patan (also known as Lalitpur and Yala) as well as smaller towns such as Kirtipur and Sunaguthi belong to the administrative unit of Lalitpur. Together, they form a key site of heritage as placemaking and a research focus of Christiane Brosius, Monalisa Maharjan, and Monica Mottin. The city has a rich built heritage and centuries-long practices of placemaking: many central heritage sites in Patan’s Darbar Square (declared UNESCO world heritage) and its vicinity can be traced back to the 17th century CE, while archaeological evidence reaches back to the 7th century, and chronicles speak of Patan’s mythical origins. Additionally, the city is home to deeply rooted traditions of performance and theater, making it a focal point of Monica Mottin’s research. Much of this multilayered city contains vibrant practices of placemaking.

‘Old Patan’, the urban core, is undergoing rapid and dramatic transformation, which has intensified particularly since the end of the Nepalese Civil War in 2006. Called ‘the city of courtyards’ by architecture historian Niels Gutschow, Patan is made up of more than 1000 courtyards, around 200 of them associated with monastic Buddhist orders and more than140 freestanding Hindu temples and shrines—many of them still in active use, some unused. But this urban transformation does not signal a ‘dead-end’ street for cultural heritage sites and practices: rather, a fascinating combination of replacement and reconstruction, as well as neglect, decay, and destruction can be witnessed. This is particularly the case in the context of two vernacular architectural types that are studied here: the phalcā and the hiti. The phalcā (Newari, pati in Nepali) is a semi-public arcaded platform, of which the Nepal Heritage Documentation Project (NHDP) led by Christiane Brosius has mapped more than 400 examples. The hiti (Newari, dhunge dhara in Nepali), studied by Monalisa Maharjan, are traditional stone water wells, found throughout Nepal. Brosius and Maharjan jointly research the ways in which heritage activists have increasingly begun to mobilize and promote their agendas through these two heritage forms. 

Video © Monica Mottin

Solidaric communities and forms of commoning as placemaking assemble around and in relation to these sites, rediscovering their resourcefulness for social and ritual life, for environmental awareness, and for political activities, such as a promotion of ‘Newar heritage’. Much of this connects to the contested role of public spaces, post-earthquake regeneration activities, and developmentalist transformation in the densely populated Kathmandu Valley. The infrastructure and use of phalcā and hiti underlines how, when, and why different social groups often mobilise to populate these ‘traditional’ architectural forms with ritual and social relevance with new life and meaning. These groups furthermore range from local neighbourhood associations, to social media activists, to artists and architects.

Inauguration of Samay phalcā, March 19, 2022. Photo © Yogesh Budathoki.

A unique set of phalcās is placed in and around the sacred pond in the quarter of Pimbahal. The site experienced remarkable citizen-based rejuvenation after the earthquakes in 2015, when many buildings were destroyed and rebuilt, a process that also reflects a community spirit and a sense of wanting to contribute to a dynamic urban citizenry. Photo © Christiane Brosius, 2018.

For Monica Mottin, Patan is also home to theatrical and performance practices that expand our understandings of placemaking. The Kartik Naach is a dance drama performed in the month of Kartik (October-November) in Patan Durban Square. Started in 1641 by King Siddhi Narsingh Malla, it has been performed continuously every year, although the length of the dance has varied. For example, during the peak of the pandemic, the dance was performed for only two days, without an audience. In 2022, the Kartik Naach was performed for 10 days. The organizing committee is presently working to perform the Kartik Naach for a full month in 2023, thus staging dances that have not been performed for decades. In her research for Heritage as Placemaking, Dr. Mottin has been filming the dance, interviewing key participants, and reviewing past research and publications to understand how the staging of the dance has changed and what such changes mean for the local community.

Project member and heritage expert Monalisa Maharjan discusses the reconstruction process of the much disputed Samay Phalcā in Pulchowk with an artisan. The arcaded rest house was placed in front of the main entrance of a bank, claiming this was the original place where it stood until it collapsed in the 1970s. Photo © Heritage as Placemaking.

Festival ritual installation of a large Bhairava statue in Chithu Phalcā, an arcaded rest house designed to host and exhibit the deity on particular days in the year (Newari “hāthu haykegu”). The initiative was based on the desire to revive both ritual practice related to Newar heritage as well as the places connecting practice, communities and place. Christiane Brosius researches the processes of placemaking through which different local and residential groups participate. Photo © Yogesh Budathoki, NHDP, March 2022.